Introduction
The 12-day Kumano Kodo cycling journey offered a harmonious blend of adventure, cultural exploration, and natural beauty. Beginning at Lake Biwa and traversing the sacred Kii Peninsula, this trip provided a perfect balance of challenging rides, tranquil moments, and immersive experiences. Taking place in late November, the journey included chilly days, but the lack of crowds created a private and truly special atmosphere. This is a detailed account of the unforgettable experience.
Day 1: Gathering at Omihachiman
The journey began at a cozy hotel near Lake Biwa, where a warm welcome awaited along with bike fittings to prepare for the adventure. The day included exploring the historic streets of Omihachiman and enjoying the picturesque views of Japan's largest lake. A scenic ropeway ride to Hachimanyama Castle added a touch of adventure while offering breathtaking panoramic views.
Day 2: From Omihachiman to Koka
The second day featured a relaxing ride along the shores of Lake Biwa, transitioning smoothly into the peaceful countryside. The destination was Koka, a town renowned for its ninja heritage. A visit to the local ninja museum provided fascinating insights into the history and ingenuity of the legendary warriors, showcasing traps, tools, and traditional techniques.
Day 3: Koka to Yagyu
The route on the third day passed through Shigaraki, a pottery village celebrated for its whimsical tanuki statues that lined the streets. The journey continued with gentle climbs through rolling hills and reached the tea fields of Wazuka, where freshly made green tea ice cream provided a refreshing treat. The day concluded in Yagyu with an overnight stay at a traditional ryokan, offering a tranquil atmosphere for rest and reflection.
Day 4: Exploring Yoshino
The fourth day involved a long ride through rural landscapes, showcasing the beauty of Japan's countryside. A visit to Muroji Temple added a spiritual dimension to the day, with its five-story pagoda and serene forested surroundings. Arriving in Yoshino, the evening was spent in a traditional rental, providing a comfortable and homely end to the day.
Day 5: Climbing to Mount Koya
The fifth day brought the most challenging leg of the journey, with steep mountain climbs leading to Mount Koya. The effort was rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding landscapes and the opportunity to explore the spiritual heart of Koyasan, including its temple complexes. An overnight stay at a temple lodging included a traditional vegetarian Buddhist meal, deepening the cultural immersion.
Day 6: Mount Koya to Dorogawa Onsen
The descent from Mount Koya on the sixth day followed scenic mountain roads surrounded by dense forests. The ride led to Dorogawa Onsen, a peaceful hot spring village known for its relaxing atmosphere. The day ended with a soothing soak in the natural hot springs, melting away the fatigue of the challenging descent.
Day 7: Dorogawa Onsen to Totsukawa
The route on the seventh day followed the Tenkawa River, offering picturesque views of clear waters and surrounding gorges. A visit to Tenkawa Shrine, nestled within a tranquil forest, provided a moment of reflection before continuing to Totsukawa. The remote village, rich in tradition, offered a warm welcome at a family-run lodge where local hospitality created a memorable stay. The rainy weather adds to the adventurous and rugged nature of this part of the journey.
Day 8: Discover Kawayu Onsen
The eighth day’s ride led to Kumano Hongu Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with striking architecture and serene surroundings. From there, the journey continued to Kawayu Onsen, where the unique opportunity to dig a personal hot spring bath along the riverbed created an unforgettable moment. The day blended cultural significance with relaxation in a truly remarkable setting.
Day 9: Rest Day
A rest day in Kawayu Onsen provided the chance to recover from the journey's challenges. Optional activities included hiking the Kumano pilgrimage routes, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes, or simply enjoying the tranquility of the hot springs for a rejuvenating experience.
Day 10: Kawayu Onsen to Shingu
The ride on the tenth day passed through the Kiwa region, with a highlight being the Maruyama Senmaida, a terraced rice field that harmonized beautifully with the natural contours of the land. The day concluded with a visit to Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine, a revered spiritual site with deep historical and cultural importance.
Day 11: Shingu to Nachi-Katsuura
The final day of cycling included a visit to Nachi Taisha Shrine and the awe-inspiring Nachi Falls, Japan’s tallest waterfall. The journey concluded in the coastal town of Nachi-Katsuura, where the sound of the Pacific Ocean and the town's vibrant energy marked a celebratory end to the adventure.
Day 12: Farewell
The journey concluded with a quiet and heartfelt breakfast, marking the final moments of an unforgettable adventure. With no rush to depart, the morning was spent reflecting on the incredible experiences of the past 12 days—every challenging climb, every breathtaking view, and every serene moment shared along Japan’s sacred trails. The quiet goodbyes to the trails were filled with gratitude for the shared moments and the connection to the timeless spirit of the Kumano region.
Overall Experience
The Kumano Kodo cycling trip offered an ideal combination of physical challenge, cultural exploration, and serene relaxation. The route through sacred trails and spiritual sites allowed for deep immersion in Japan's history and traditions, while the natural beauty of the landscapes provided constant inspiration. With the cooler days of late November and minimal crowds, the journey felt intimate and uniquely special, offering a true connection to the heart of Japan’s sacred heritage.
Comments